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Pre poo
Pre poo is a pre shampoo treatment that is applied to the hair (normally when the hair is dry) before it is washed out with shampoo or a co-wash.
Co-wash
Co wash otherwise known as a Conditioner wash is when shampoo is substituted for conditioner to cleanse the hair.
Deep condition
Deep conditioning combats the damage of chemical treatments, colouring, heat styling and environmental pollution.
Depending on the deep conditioning treatment you use, they generally work in one of two ways, it either adds back protein into the hair or moisture.
Relaxer
A relaxer is a type of lotion or cream which makes hair less curly, and easier to straighten by chemically 'relaxing' the natural curls. The active agent is usually a strong alkali, although some formulations are based on ammonium thioglcolate instead.
No-lye relaxer
Is a creme which usually consists of one of the following as a main ingredient, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, or guanidine hydroxide. The last of these is not pre-formulated, but rather is generated at the time of use by combining a cream containing calcium hydroxide (slaked lime) with an "activating solution" of guanidine carbonate a product with a higher (more basic) PH to change the shape of the hair strands by breaking the disulfide bonds that hold the protein fibrils. In other words, it's takes out the curl, but also elimates some of the strength and elasticity of the hair.
Lye relaxer
A lye relaxer consists of sodium hydroxide (also known as NaOH or lye) mixed with water, petroleum jelly, mineral oil, and emulsifiers to create a creamy consistency. On application, the caustic "lye cream" permeates the protein structure of the hair and weakens its internal bonds, causing the natural curls to loosen out as the entire fibre swells open. No special deactivation step is required after washing the lye cream out, other than the routine pH adjustment and hair-conditioning.
Texturizer
A texturizer is a "milder" chemical hair treatment with the main ingredient of either sodium hydroxide or calcium hydroxide.
It is a permanent solution designed to loosen the curl pattern in tightly curled hair. It wont make the hair completely straight, but it will be wavy and easier to manage.
Texlax
Texlaxing is to intentionally underprocess hair with a chemical relaxer. This is achieved by applying the relaxer for less than the recommended time required and/or mixing in a base oil or conditioner in your relaxer to make the relaxer milder. It leaves the hair not as bone straight as a traditional relaxer - but still textured enough with a softer texture and looser curl.
Over processing
Over-processed black hair occurs when black hair receives frequent chemical applications.
This also occurs when one chemical application, such as a relaxer or texturizer, is left on the hair beyond the recommended processing time.
Porous Hair
Hair porosity refers to the hair's ability to absorb moisture. Very porous hair is typically damaged with the cuticle not completely intact, usually from too much bleaching or over processing from perms or relaxers. Porous hair absorbs hair chemicals very quickly and can become over processed and damaged quickly. On the contrary, hair that is not very porous does not absorb chemicals very quickly and can be difficult to perm or colour
Neutralizing shampoo
Neutralizing shampoo brings the pH of the hair back down to between 4.5 to a 5.5 level. Which is the normal range for hair and skin. It is usually used after having chemical services done on the hair. It takes out all the residue in the hair from the relaxer.
Reconstructor
Is a protein product/treatment that is used to structurally reinforce hair that has been chemically damaged or abused by thermal styling appliances.
Essential oil
An essential oil is a concentrated, hydrophobic liquid containing volatile aroma compounds from plants. An oil is "essential" in the sense that it carries a distinctive scent, or essence, of the plant.
Base/Carrier oil
Base oil, also known as the carrier oil or vegetable oil, is used to dilute essential oils and absolutes before they are applied to the skin or hair. Carrier oils do not contain a concentrated aroma. They do not evaporate like essential oils, which are more volatile.
Shedding
Each hair grows in cycles - it grows, rests, and then falls out. At the end of its resting stage, the hair goes through a shedding phase. When a hair is shed, it is replaced by a new hair from the same follicle (roots) located just beneath the skin surface.
Breakage
Breakage is when hair is "broken off" from the body of the hair and not the roots. This can be caused by several factors i.e moisture or protein overload in the hair, poor hair maintenance, excessive combing or brushing, or dryness.
Clarifying
Is a strong cleansing method (normally in the form of a deep cleansing shampoo) which involves the removal of excess sebum and build up of styling products on the scalp and hair.
Stretching
Prolonging the period of time of an application or a "touch up" of relaxer on new growth.
Instead of relaxing at every 6 wks, you would "stretch" out the time until the next application of relaxer to new growth to 8, 10, or 12 weeks.
Protective styling
Wearing your hair up in a style that helps protect the hair and ends from external elements whilst retaining moisture i.e Buns, Clips, Pony Tails Weaves, Plaits etc.
Bagging
A plastic bag, shower cap, or clingfilm is placed on the head to seal in the heat to allow for deeper penetration of products applied on the hair. This is a procedure that can be used for pre-treatments, deep conditioning the hair either on it's own, or with the aid of a heat cap, hooded hair dryer or steamer.
Dusting
Dusting is a method of trimming the end of the hair to remove split ends.
It usually involves the removal 1/8 to a 1/4 of individual strands which have split at the end of the hair.
Moisturising
In preventing dryness and breakage, it is the process of adding moisture to the hair or scalp in the form of an oil, water based lotion or cream. Moisturising aids in retaining lenghth and keeps the hair supple, shiny, and soft.
Sealing
Is when the hair shaft is 'sealed' or coated with an oil or a hair butter to lock moisture into the hair.
Trichologist
A professional who is trained in the scientific study of the health of hair and scalp, and analyzes the hair and scalp to determine possible causes of hair problems.
